Front Crossmember Modifications
I started with a the stock front crossmember from my 1970 510 and flipped it to clear the front sump SR20DE. Most people flip the front crossmember by cutting out the center section and welding it back in the other way. I decided that since I was going to be modifying the crossmember anyways, I should use this opportunity to improve the cars handling as well. Rather than flipping the center section, I opted to remove the control arm pivots and weld them back on the other side, I also moved them out (1" total) and up (1/2") to improve bump steer and add negative camber.
First I cut the control arm pivots out of the stock crossmember with a hole saw and welded up the holes.
Then the pivots were jigged up on the other side (very careful measuring and jigging, I didn't want to screw this part up and have my car driving in circles) and welded in place. Here's a couple comparison shots with a stock crossmember.
Once the pivots were moved, the crossmember mounting holes were slotted so that it would bolt in backwards and the stock motor mounts and front lip (it was a rear lip after being flipped) were shaved off.
The motor was then hung in the engine bay where I wanted it to sit.
Careful measurements were taken and the new motor mounts were created on the modified crossmember (This proved to be much more difficult than I thought, I actually had to remake the motor mounts 3 times and the tranny mount twice before I got the engine to sit how I wanted it to with no interference)
A tranny crossmember was fabricated from square tubing and the center section of the centerlink was cut out and flipped over to clear the transmission bellhousing.
Finished!
